Shahtoosh trade behind declining Chiru Population

Sanjeeb Baruah

Four years after the “Say no to Shahtoosh” campaign took off in a bid to save the endangered chiru or Tibetan antelope, there is a perceptible change in attitudes of the consumer. This has been brought to light by a survey commissioned by the Wildlife Trust of India. The chiru, with its decline in numbers attributed to the demand of shahtoosh shawls is, however, poised to be the mascot of the Beijing Olympics.

Whether this recognition will ease matters for campaigners and whether the chiru can charm its way out of being a target to poachers are issues that will only be tackled once the chiru attains its new status. The present scenario is that notwithstanding the changing attitudes of elite society on wearing shahtoosh, a large number of Tibetan antelope still continue to die at the hands of unscrupulous poachers and the wool finds its way to Srinagar, where less than 15000 workers are still involved in weaving shahtoosh.

Killing of Tibetan Antelopes:

Consfiscated chiru skin in China

Tibetan Antelope (Pantholops hodgsonii) or popularly known as Chiru, an animal commonly found in the upper ridges of the Tibetan plateau is considered endangered today, due to intensive poaching of the animal for its wool. Chirus were also killed in the past, by Tibetans for their meat. Chiru meat is considered to be a good source of protein and in the colder regions of Tibet , it is believed to be an important part of the local diet. Chiru under fleece yields the finest of wool and it is used for making shahtoosh shawls.

Trading in any derivative of the Tibetan Antelope has been banned under laws in India and Tibet. Trade in any form of these animals has also been prohibited by various international trade monitoring organizations such as CITES, IUCN, etc. besides upholding the ban by various other regional collaborations in Asia and Europe. In India, the animal is listed on the Schedule 1 of the Wildlife (Protection Act) 1972, which accords it the highest degree of protection to any species in India.

Although India does not have a chiru population as Tibet does, small herds sometimes migrate to Ladakh in Jammu & Kashmir and return to the high plains of Tibet . The animals are poached in Tibet, where they are skinned and the wool is taken to Srinagar via routes through Ladakh and Nepal.

Wildlife trade in Tibet:

Despite the fact that two-thirds of the Tibetan population is engaged in agriculture, trading is still a major activity in Tibet. For centuries, the famous silk route linking Central and Far East Asia through Tibet served as an important trade route not only for the Tibetan economy but also for many Asian economies of the region.

In the hub of this geo-political region, Tibet forms an integral part of this trade route and a strategic trade outpost, for the middle-eastern and south-east Asian economies. Due to this reason, for a long time, Tibetans living in Tibet and neighboring countries have been trading useful commodities to different countries of Asia and Europe. Trade and commerce have always been part of Tibet’s culture. Pearls, precious stones, Tibetan embroidery, Tibetan carpets etc are ferried to different countries for trade and commerce. Tibetan embroidery work on carpets is a famous art-work of Tibet and is well known all over the world.

However, in the last few decades, Tibet has also emerged as the hub of illegal wildlife trade for wildlife traffickers from Western and Asian countries. At the centre of this trade are chiru wool, tiger skin and bones, leopard skin, ivory tusks and other wildlife products from countries in Asia or as far as Africa , which are banned from international trade, are supplied through clandestine networks in India , Tibet and neighboring countries to various destinations worldwide.

Traders dealing in illegal wildlife products often exploit porous Tibetan borders for transit of these products. Border patrolling in these areas is not persistent due to its vast geographical regions, shortage of manpower and machinery and lack of infrastructure for a long term intensive vigil.

Informed sources reveal that tiger products and ivory from India are smuggled into Tibet, from where they are transported to other countries. Indian ivory is in great demand in Japan and a large quantity of ivory tusks is illegally transported to Japan each year via Taiwan. Shahtoosh wool from Tibet is smuggled into India in exchange. In such situations, a major hurdle for the security agencies is often identification of shahtoosh wool.

Apart from being a hub of wildlife trade, Tibet has also started emerging as a consumer of tiger, leopard, otter and fox skins, tiger bones and bear bile. Due to existing demand of wildlife products in the undercover markets, supply of wildlife products have also increased manifold, depending on the consumers’ choice, and preference.

Shahtoosh trade in India:

It was estimated that prior to the ban in J & K, more than 50 thousand families in Jammu and Kashmir were involved in the shatoosh trade or the shahtoosh shawl weaving process alone, though Pashmina, Shahmina and Jamavar were also popularly woven.

Following the ban on shahtoosh trade by the Indian, the Jammu and Kashmir government also passed a similar ban on shahtoosh in the year 2002, prohibiting use of shahtoosh wool. Since then, trade in shahtoosh considerably reduced.

Unfortunately, shahtoosh trade continued to flourish through clandestine markets and illegal wildlife traffickers dealing in shahtoosh. Though, it is difficult to establish an exact figure, of the volume of shahtoosh trade in India, informed sources estimate that the shawl is still traded in the northern belt of India, where a sizable population shows an inclination to buy the shawl. For the rich and famous, it is also a status symbol and a prized possession.

The Campaign: “Say no to Shahtoosh”

To save the Tibetan Antelope, the Wildlife Trust of India (WTI) and its partner the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) initiated a campaign, “Say no to Shahtoosh” in the metro cities of India and north Indian states of Delhi and Punjab, where the shahtoosh shawl is believed to be traded more commonly due to the demand from wealthy buyers.

Shahtoosh weavers at work in Srinagar

An important aspect of this campaign was to understand the shahtoosh trade itself, from the initial stages of processing the wool for making shahtoosh shawls, till it reaches the consumers. Therefore identification of all the stakeholders involved in the shahtoosh trade, from producers to dealers, middlemen and the consumers was an important area of focus during the campaign. New evidences were collected from the three states of Jammu and Kashmir, Delhi and Punjab, in the form of demand and supply ratios, reasons for continued killing, general awareness of the consumers about the illegal status of shahtoosh shawls etc, to help construct an effective mechanism not only to reduce the demand on shahtoosh shawls but also to rehabilitate the traditional shahtoosh shawl weavers of Jammu and Kashmir by finding an alternative livelihood.

A door-to-door survey and census of shahtoosh workers in Jammu and Kashmir revealed that about 14000 workers in Srinager were still directly or indirectly involved in the weaving of shahtoosh shawls. Although many were aware that the use of shahtoosh wool was illegal, they continued with it as it was their only source of livelihood. Widespread poverty and the lure of money posed as the biggest impediments for a complete switch over of this profession. Shahtoosh weavers in Jammu and Kashmir could easily earn Rs. 5000/- to Rs. 15,000/- upward per shawl depending on the size. Thus in the light of multiple roles played by various stakeholders, ranging from poachers, producers, dealers, middlemen and finally the consumers, a multi-pronged strategy was devised in each state according to the need. Since marketing is also an important component of this trade, key commercial hubs in these states were identified, where potential shahtoosh trade-exchange could occur.

Fashion designers say no to shahtoosh

The high profile campaign garnered support from celebrities, fashion designers and the film fraternity, who endorsed the campaign, pledged to “Say no to Shahtoosh”, introduced alternatives to shahtoosh and over all, gave the campaign the exposure it aimed for. The census report on shahtoosh workers was presented with recommendations to the Ministry of Textiles and an amnesty scheme during which people could declare their shahtoosh shawls and have them registered was launched. Fashion designers were also encouraged to promote alternatives to shahtoosh, such as Pashmina, Jamavar and Shahmina, which also made a deep impact on the consumer’s preferences. Thus popularity of these alternatives notably increased.

Apart from Delhi, WTI identified three major cities of Punjab, Chandigarh, Ludhiana and Jalandhar, which are also well known apparel merchandizing centers of north India. Chandigarh is also popularly referred to as fashion capital of Punjab. In those areas of Punjab, where it is seen that a significant number of people indulge on shahtoosh shawl, street plays were organized in popular markets, where potential customers are more likely to come, to buy shahtoosh shawls. The aim was to educate the local public through popular street plays, on how the helpless Chirus are killed in large numbers in Tibet to satisfy the demand for shahtoosh shawls. It also aimed at sensitizing the public to put a stop to further purchase of shahtoosh shawl. They were also informed, how the wool is procured by killing the animal.

In addition, the Enforcement division of WTI made significant headway in penetrating the organized wildlife crime syndicates operating in the region and exposing them to face trials under Indian Wildlife (Protection) Act. WTI associates who are monitoring the trade routes as well as seizures of wildlife items are hopeful that the public will themselves shun this product once they are aware of the mindless killing of the poor animal and the illegal status of the shawl.

In the last two years, WTI has identified several such cases of wildlife crime and were able to register cases against several dealers and middlemen involved in the shahtoosh trade and get them arrested. With this aim, WTI has stressed upon these major areas as part of their campaign; bringing attitudinal shift among consumers, removing myths related to the origin of the wool, awareness on the illegal status of the shawl and promoting alternatives such as Pashmina, Shahmina and Jamavar.

A survey to determine current attitudes on shahtoosh

A street play in Chandigarh

In order to measure any perceptible change in shahtoosh trade, following the campaign in north India, WTI commissioned a survey in Delhi and Punjab to ascertain how effective the campaign was in achieving its objectives.

It was expected that the survey results would throw light on several important components of the shahtoosh trade and at the same time determine possible interventions towards conservation goals of the endangered Tibetan Antelope.

The report has highlighted several variables with respect to the trade, such as supply and demand ratios, reasons for continued killing despite an international ban, shahtoosh traders manipulating the consumers by perpetuating myths about the source of shahtoosh wool and general awareness of the consumers about shahtoosh shawls.

The survey targeted a cross-section of people, between 21 years to 65 years old in the four cities of Delhi, Ludhiana , Chandigarh and Jalandhar, where the population is reasonably affluent. These areas were targeted also due to the fact that the region holds maximum number of textile mills and merchandizing centers of north India. A sizeable population in these cities also found to show interest in buying shahtoosh shawls. During the survey a cross section of 600 people were interviewed from the two states of Delhi and Punjab .

Familiarities of shahtoosh shawls among non-owners were measured by determining the following; whether they saw someone wearing it? Whether seen it with a dealer of shahtoosh shawl? Whether they saw it in a news paper or a magazine? Whether they saw it on TV? etc. It was observed, that the people in these cities are more aware of the Pashmina shawls, than the other two varieties, Shahmina and Jamavar shawls. Shahtoosh shawls are also somewhat popular next to Pashmina.

It was reported by maximum number of respondents, that they have seen someone wearing it. Ownership among acquaintances was largely reported from Delhi, than the other three cities.

Awareness about the price of shahtoosh shawls, were ranged anywhere between Rs. 5000/- to Rs. 50,000/-. Although many of them have reported that the price of the Shahtoosh shawl to be at Rs. 30,000/- and above.

The survey has also reported that there are many motivating factors for owning a shahtoosh shawl, such as, it is warm and soft, light weight and good quality, natural textures and good color etc. Due to its high costs people also like to collect shahtoosh shawls as prized possessions.

However, ownerships of shahtoosh shawls have gone down during the period, from the last year’s record. It was reported in the interviews that only three of the respondents have bought shahtoosh shawl, while 52 respondents have reported to buy Pashmina and 30 reported to have bought Jamavar.

The survey report confirms that the intention to buy shahtoosh shawls has relatively gone down in most of these cities, though Ludhiana has reported to have the same level of interest. While Chandigarh respondents are clearly not keen towards purchasing shahtoosh shawls. It shows that the campaign was able to make an impact on the minds of the people wherever it was planned. Here Ludhiana was not part of the campaign range and therefore the level of interest reported to be the same.

Various factors can be attributed from the interviews, for the gradual decline of interest in shahtoosh, such as, its price, general awareness of the ban, its non-availability in the market or knowledge about the shawl etc. However, costs still seem to be a major barrier followed by the ban on shahtoosh.

Pop singer Usha Uthap says no to shahtoosh

Awareness among people about the source of shahtoosh shawl was of mixed response. Many of them attribute it to the killing of animal for sourcing the wool. While some say it is sourced as under fleece from the animal. Many others don’t know how the wool is procured. At the same time, some respondents said the shawl is hand made, while others said it is machine made, the rest suggests it is imported.

Findings from the review report point out, that the perception of shahtoosh being imported has dramatically risen over the last year. There also seems to be higher awareness about the killing of Tibetan antelopes for making shahtoosh shawls. Present shahtoosh shawl owners are also largely aware of the source.

The review report has brought to light many positive changes in the shahtoosh trade than it was in the previous years. A higher price of the shawl indicates that the shawl is not readily available in the market. The demand was also seem to be considerably reduced, due to increased consumer awareness of the ban, as well as more understanding on the source of the wool.

The report also indicates that more and more people are changing their preferences to other varieties such as Pashmina and Jamavar, also indicating no promotional activity of the shahtoosh shawl. At the same time, more and more people’s attention was drawn towards Shahmina, Jamavar and Pashmina, indicating higher awareness and familiarity of these shawls. People are also more sympathetic towards the animal now and feel that the conservation of the animal is important.

Present owners of the shawl have also revealed that they are keeping the shawl as a mark of exclusivity. Hence, factors of status symbol and pride have taken over by humility and restraint.

It was important to have such figures upon completion of four years of Campaign. The survey report has highlighted some positive outcome and would give further impetus to the campaign. The campaign “Say no to Shahtoosh” was initiated by Wildlife Trust of India (WTI) in the year 2000, in the north Indian states of Delhi and Punjab to bring about attitudinal change among consumers of shahtoosh shawls, removing myths related to the origin of the wool and promoting alternatives such as Pashmina, Shahmina and Jamavar.